Faux Fur Is Cruelty Free - But Is It Sustainable?
When luxury brands announce they're going fur-free, its a big win for animal welfare - but not always for the planet. Each year, more fashion houses (and recently New York Fashion Week) pledge to stop using real fur due to the cruel and abusive practices of the fur industry. But here's the catch: most are simply replacing animal fur with petroleum-based synthetic alternatives, trading one problem for another.
The Hidden Cost of Traditional Faux Fur
While faux fur eliminates animal cruelty, the majority of it is made from petroleum-based plastics, creating a different set of environmental concerns:
Non-biodegradable waste: Once discarded, these materials sit in landfills for hundreds of years without breaking down.
Microplastic pollution: Like other synthetic fabrics, faux fur sheds tiny plastic particles with every wash. These microplastics end up in our water systems, oceans, and eventually our food chain.
High carbon footprint: Petroleum-based production is energy-intensive and contributes to water contamination and the destruction of land and ecosystems.
The good news? Sustainable alternatives do exist, and they're becoming increasingly accessible to both designers and consumers.
Plant-Based Fur: The Next Generation
Plant-based materials are believed to produce 50% less emissions than their plastic-based counterparts—with zero microplastics. Several innovative companies are leading this revolution:
BioFur™ by House of Fluff: This NYC-based brand, founded by Kym Canter, creates plastic-free, compostable alternatives made from corn-based polymer and tinted with plant-based dyes. Their offerings include BioSherpa (resembling shearling) and BIOBunny (mimicking rabbit fur). The material has received the US Department of Agriculture Biopreferred certification, confirming it's made from plants or other renewable materials.
Savian by BioFluff: Created by Edwin Vonholy, this material is dubbed the "world's first 100% plant-based fur." Made from nettle, hemp, and flax fibers—actually agricultural byproducts processed with plant-derived enzymes—Savian boasts an impressive 95% emission reduction compared to animal fur. BioFluff has partnered with major sustainable fashion players like Stella McCartney and GANNI.
ECOPEL's Plant-Based Options: This company offers several choices, including Flur (a plant-based faux fur), KOBA (featuring 37% corn-based fiber, using 30% less energy and producing 63% fewer emissions than conventional faux fur), and GACHA (100% commercially compostable in 180 days, making it fully biodegradable).
Recycled and Circular Solutions
Another sustainable approach involves recycled materials and circular fashion principles:
Recycled Polyester Faux Fur: Made from recycled plastic, including ocean-retrieved materials, this option reduces reliance on new fossil fuels. Look for GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification to ensure sustainable production. ECOPEL offers a variety of recycled synthetics.
Denim Fur: Designers like Tiziano Guardini and Ksenia Schnaider create unique fur-like textures from frayed, repurposed denim. Other designers are upcycling hemp and cotton fabrics into a fluffy “furs”. This garment-to-garment recycling represents one of the most beneficial forms of material circularity.
The Most Sustainable Option of All
Perhaps the most environmentally friendly choice is to upcycle existing faux fur garments. Vintage fur upcycling has become popular, with brands like Hodakova and Gabriela Hearst leading the way. Whether you're working with an existing faux fur coat or a real fur piece from a vintage store, giving these materials a second life prevents new production entirely.
Making Informed Choices
As consumers and designers, we have the power to drive change in the fashion industry. By choosing plant-based alternatives, supporting recycled materials, or embracing vintage and upcycled options, we can enjoy the aesthetic of fur without the environmental or ethical costs.
The future of fashion doesn't have to choose between cruelty-free and sustainable—with these innovative materials, we can have both.